Ottawans love to skate the Rideau Canal. I found paddling it in a glowing kayak just as magical

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Paddlers near me chuckled. The historical context throughout the night favoured bite-sized trivia, just enough to appreciate the surroundings without slowing the pace.

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A couple in a tandem were putting the “divorce kayak” nickname to work. She was in front trying to set a rhythm, but he was half a beat behind in the back, so their blades clicked together on most strokes. After another light tap, she rested her paddle on her lap and looked at me. “His idea,” she called over, half laughing at their predicament while he tried a few awkward strokes in reverse to straighten out the boat. “I wish he’d listen more.”

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Pacing followed an easy rule to remember. A paddler unable to see a guide ahead was moving too fast, while a paddler looking at the full guide crew ahead was falling behind. I fell behind whenever I paused for photos, though regaining position was easy and I noticed staff keeping watch.

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Launches are timed so paddlers head upstream through sunset and head back after dark. Photo by Tony Caldwell /POSTMEDIA

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Bridges and baseline mechanics

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On our cool July evening, around 16 degrees, the warmth of the water kept surprising my fingertips whenever a stroke splashed. The canal had zero odor despite floating algae in the shallows. Overhead, the bridges passed so low I could reach out and touch the support beams. Metal structures groaned under passing cars, tossing clunks and deep reverberations down to the water, giving every crossing an individual voice. Bridges became progress markers heading toward the locks, transforming into familiar milestones on the return loop.

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The route covers two-and-a-half kilometres toward the Rideau Locks and back, five kilometres total over two hours at a pace a beginner can maintain. The level of effort was closer to an evening walk than a workout.

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Golden hour light reflects off the Rideau Canal as paddlers approach the Château Laurier. Photo by Tony Caldwell /POSTMEDIA

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For beginners, the basic mechanics take a few minutes to master. Guides instructed keeping the paddle logo facing you, starting a stroke at your feet and finishing at your hip, scooping enough water to propel you forward. Steering relies on opposites, like a stroke on the left pushes the bow right, and vice versa. When asked about waves, the guides noted that pointing a kayak straight into a wake gives the most stability, though I found the canal barely rippled during the outing.

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As we glided past the shoreline, Anika kept commentary flowing over the speaker. She detailed the canal’s brutal 1826 construction through swamp and forest, where malaria claimed hundreds of Irish workers. The University of Ottawa slid past on our right, introduced as the world’s largest bilingual university with alumni like Alex Trebek and Paul Martin. Next came Pretoria Bridge, engineered to lift flat like a tabletop for tall boats, before she pointed toward the National Arts Centre, dropping an unexpected stat: the venue hosts a staggering 1,400 performances a year.

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Nearing the halfway mark of the kayak trip, the glass façade of Rogers Centre caught the twilight. Photo by Tony Caldwell /POSTMEDIA

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Whenever the group paused, we were invited to raft up by holding part of a neighbour’s craft. It kept us from drifting apart during anecdotes and made the history easier to hear over the breeze. Strangers make surprisingly efficient mooring.

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The locks close at 7 p.m., so the only commercial vessel likely to meet us was the electric Ottawa Boat Cruise. Aidan briefed us on our evasion plan — the whole group would pull hard to the left — which ultimately went unused. While the cruise boat never materialized, the canal was far from deserted. Nearing the Rogers Centre, we glided past a line of luxury leisure craft moored along the bank.

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“Trade you,” one kayaker called up to a man lounging on the deck of his yacht. “Not a chance,” he chortled back.

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Strong gusts near the Rideau Locks test paddlers. Photo by Tony Caldwell /POSTMEDIA

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A hard wind waited for us at the locks, funnelled through the limestone walls. Aidan offered to take photos, demonstrating patience while gusts shoved us sideways. Moments later, noticing the light inside my hull dimming, he paddled over with a replacement — a firefly pit crew of one.

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Dusk settled fully while we floated near the Château Laurier, handing us a postcard view for the trip back. Rounding the first bend, a bright moon hung over the water while the darkened canal caught the colour spilling off our boats.