Anthony Gismondi: The white wine reset is here. Here are 5 B.C. bottles to try

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Case in point is our No. 1 planted white wine grape, Pinot Gris. The predominant style is closer to a fruit salad than to a dry, snappy, clean, mineral, refreshing white that is a winner at the dinner table. There is huge potential to up our game here.

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Chardonnay is No. 2 in vines in the ground, and for the most part, I would say we are on track, with more and more wines across the province arriving with tension, complexity, and less oak.

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Next up is Riesling, maybe the best white, but the toughest sell in the wine business. After that, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Viognier, Sémillon, Chenin Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, and Albariño are all possibilities, although winter hardiness can be an issue with some.

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Anyway you look at it, the white wine reset is here. If we want to stay in the game, we need to exploit the grapes, the vineyard sites, and our cool climate to take on the rest of the wine world, which is determined to protect its market share, too.

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Check out our weekend wine picks for B.C. white wines on track.

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Weekend wine picks

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Unsworth Vineyards Charme De L’ile N/V, Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island
$29.90 I 89/100

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UPC: 626990160977

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At Unsworth, this effervescent wine, with impressively small bubbles, boasts a blend that has evolved over the years and now leads with Sauvignette, followed by Pinot Gris with a touch of Pinot Noir. The latest version is crisper and leaner, with a lower alcohol level than earlier versions, all of which makes it much more attractive as a food wine. The lees, fresh-cut apple and pear skin notes intoxicate. Ready to drink and mostly dry at eight grams per litre residual. Well done.

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Quails’ Gate Chenin Blanc 2025, West Kelowna, Okanagan Valley
$26.99 I 90/100

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UPC: 778856121032

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The 2025 is an upgrade in vibrancy, freshness and precision, shedding just the right amount of weight to move away from the somewhat round and cloying style that can be Chenin Blanc from time to time, especially in warmer years. Look for a green-apple, pear-skin, lemon-zest nose with a dusting of green herbs and some chalky minerality. Overall, the style is fresh and brisk, with lively acidity and a gentle savoury streak throughout. Food-friendly and a perfect foil for the upcoming local spot prawn season. Impressive.

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Hillside Un-Oaked Sauvignon Blanc 2025, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley
$27 I 89/100

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UPC: 696852229371

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This unoaked Sauvignon Blanc is grown on the Naramata Bench over glacial till with sandy, gravelly soils. As its name suggests, there is no oak involved, and its fresh, crisp character begins with a short period on skins and stainless-steel fermentation. The nose is highly reminiscent of the grassy, green-fruit Kiwi style. Bold passion fruit and citrus flow through the mid-palate, and the finish is pure and clean. All the classic pairings will work here, from oysters and shellfish to various goat cheeses, asparagus, and vibrant, light spring dishes. Ready to drink.

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Fort Berens Reserve Riesling 2023, Lillooet
$29.99 I 91/100

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UPC: 626990248958

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The Reserve Riesling is more tightly structured, with bright acidity that highlights its tropical notes, while quince adds a bitter edge to the blend, enhancing a mineral undertone. It is a complex wine that the Germans might call gastronomic for its high acidity. The texture is slightly creamy, which helps balance the overall profile. It is estate-grown, with fruit from Dry Creek Vineyard, planted in 2009, and Red Rock Vineyard, planted in 2019. The ideal pairing would be a sesame-ginger stir-fry or pork with garlic and lemon.