Cook This: 3 Somali recipes from Soomaaliya, including cardamom crepes

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“This was my attempt at the preservation of Somali cuisine for my generation, the next generation, my daughter’s generation,” says Ahmed. “I hope, whether people are Somali or not, that they walk away with a sense of understanding Somali history, Somali food and Somali people.”

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MALAWAX

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Malawax, pronounced ma-la-wah, is a cardamom crepe usually eaten for breakfast or as a snack. “It is also one of my favourite Somali foods,” writes Ifrah F. Ahmed. Photo by Doaa Elkady

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Cardamom Crepe

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Makes: 8 to 10 malawax

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1 1/3 cups (170 g) all-purpose flour
1 cup (240 mL) milk
1 cup (240 mL) water
1 large egg
1/4 cup (50 g) sugar, plus more for serving
1 tsp ground cardamom
1/4 tsp cinnamon (optional)
Melted ghee, as needed

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Step 1

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In a blender, combine the flour, milk, water, egg, sugar, cardamom and cinnamon (if using) and blend until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl.

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Step 2

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Lightly grease a nonstick crepe pan or griddle with ghee. Set the pan over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking, then ladle 1/3 cup of the batter into the pan, spreading it in light swirls to ensure its thickness is completely even.

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Step 3

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Cook until the bottom is light brown and the batter is no longer liquid, 1 to 2 minutes. Drizzle the top of the malawax with 1/2 teaspoon of melted ghee, then flip it. Cook for 20 seconds or so, until little brown pockets form all over the surface. Using a spatula, flip the malawax onto a plate and dust it with however much sugar you’d like. Repeat the process until the batter is gone and you have a stack; serve while still warm.

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SUQAAR DIGAAG

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“It’s a good intro to Somali food without it being very complicated,” Ifrah F. Ahmed says of suqaar digaag (chicken and vegetable sauté). Photo by Doaa Elkady

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Chicken and Vegetable Sauté

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Serves: 4

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Juice of 1/2 lemon
2 1/2 tsp Xawaash (recipe follows)
1 tsp fine sea salt
1/2 tsp paprika
1/8 tsp ground black pepper
1 lb (450 g) boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite-sized pieces
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large yellow onion, halved and sliced
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 medium jalapeño, halved
3/4 cup (12 g) coarsely chopped cilantro leaves
1 medium red bell pepper, sliced
1 medium yellow bell pepper, sliced

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Step 1

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In a medium bowl, combine the lemon juice, 1 teaspoon of the xawaash, salt, paprika and pepper. Add the chicken and mix everything together to coat the chicken. Set aside.

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Step 2

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In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until loose. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 minutes, or until the onion is softened. Add the garlic and jalapeño and stir for another minute, then add the chicken in a single layer. Allow it to cook undisturbed for 5 minutes, then turn the pieces over and cook for 3 minutes more, until fully cooked through.

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Step 3

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Add the remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons xawaash, cilantro and bell peppers and stir to combine. Cover the skillet and turn the heat down to medium-low; cook until the peppers have softened, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve hot.

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XAWAASH

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Xawaash “is the savoury spice mix that really makes everything taste very uniquely Somali,” says Ifrah F. Ahmed. Photo by Doaa Elkady

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Somali Spice Mix

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Makes: about 2 1/2 cups (260 g)

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1 cup (100 g) whole cumin seeds
1 cup (70 g) whole coriander seeds
1/4 cup (35 g) black peppercorns
1 small-to-medium piece of cinnamon bark
2 tbsp green cardamom pods
1 1/2 tsp whole cloves
1/4 cup (30 g) ground turmeric

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Step 1

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Toast the cumin, coriander, peppercorns, cinnamon bark, cardamom pods and cloves in a medium skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly so the spices don’t burn. The spices are toasted when they have a slightly darker colour and become fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.

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Step 2

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Transfer the toasted spices to a blender or spice grinder and blend until they become a fine powder. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the ground turmeric until it’s fully incorporated and the spice mix is golden brown. Allow to cool completely, then store in an airtight container.

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BAASTO LISAANYO

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“Somali-style lasagna is a great example of how Somalis have reimagined Italian dishes,” says Ifrah F. Ahmed. This is the version she grew up on. Photo by Doaa Elkady

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Somali Lasagna

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Serves: 6 to 8

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1/3 cup (80 mL) olive oil, plus a drizzle for the pasta water
1 small red onion, diced
1 pound (450 g) ground beef
1 tsp salt, plus more for the pasta water
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1 1/2 cups (360 mL) water
3/4 cup (12 g) cilantro leaves, finely chopped
15 garlic cloves, minced or smashed
3 tomatoes, diced
1 (28-oz/790 g) jar good-quality marinara sauce
1 lb (450 g) lasagna noodles
20 oz (570 g) cheddar-jack cheese, shredded