Anthony Gismondi: These 4 wineries have reshaped B.C.'s wine country

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Notably, Frind’s journey is just beginning, bringing online some 900 acres of vines much farther north in Vernon. In some ways, Frind is following in the footsteps of McWatters, who, after acquiring the other nine holes of that golf course, eventually planted 100 acres of Bordeaux varieties in the South Okanagan in 1993, betting that growing red grapes was possible in a place no one else had. If doing the impossible is the stuff of dreams, then the Okanagan Valley is, too.

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Weekend wine picks

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Observatory Pinot Noir Chill 2025, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

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$27 | 88/100

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UPC: 627987772562

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Chill is made with Summerland estate-grown fruit that undergoes brief skin contact before the juice is pressed off. This technique keeps the fruit vibrant and soft, making it drinkable early with little or no tannin. Served at the recommended temperature, you get a fresh, pure red with raspberry, cranberry, and cherry, with an undercurrent of forest floor and spice. Light, fresh and drinkable, it is a fun wine for a warm summer or fall patio. Notably, the winery is donating $1 per bottle to cystic fibrosis Canada, but I’m sure they’ll accept any extra donations you’d like to make.

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Four Shadows Pinot Noir 2022, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

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$32 | 89/100

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UPC: 696852118415

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This Naramata Pinot Noir opens with an inviting, earthy cherry and strawberry nose, a hint of pepper. The attack is lively, with bright acidity, a medium, lean mid-palate, and a long, sleek, smooth finish. It is much lighter on its feet this year than last, with smart but subtle oak throughout. The ripe, sweet fruit reflects 2022’s generous warmth without crossing the line. Enjoy it now or hold it. It pairs well with grilled salmon or creamy French cheese.

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Moraine Pinot Noir Sophia Estate Vineyard 2023, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

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$32.99 | 91/100

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UPC: 749565342582

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Winemaker Amber Pratt ably crafts the Moraine wines. In this case, the Pinot Noir, clone 777, comes from the estate Sophia Vineyard and delivers the intensity and mouth-filling signature of quality Pinot Noir. Wild raspberry, red cherry, mulberry, and subtle spice lead into a lovely, silky texture that carries through to the finish. Freshness and minerality add complexity and length. This is a food-friendly pairing for duck confit, grilled salmon, or slow-cooked pork. A soft, rich cheese would also do in a pinch for a patio tasting.

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Lightning Rock Canyonview Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023, Summerland Bench, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

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$38 | 90/100

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UPC: 626990364849

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Canyonview Vineyard sits on the Summerland Bench, overlooking Trout Creek Gorge on the west side of Okanagan Lake. Planted in 2003, it has become one of Lightning Rock’s key sources of Pinot Noir. Its 20-year-old vines grow in a sandy, granitic soil, imparting freshness, mineral tension, and finesse to the wine. Expect wild cherry, raspberry, and red plum, accented by a dusting of brown spice. Elegance and subtlety take precedence over power and alcohol, while purity and freshness define its delicate savoury notes.

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Blue Grouse Pinot Noir 2023, Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia

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$39.99 | 91/100

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UPC: 696852117418

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Blue Grouse, guided by winemaker Stacy Hornemann, is joining B.C.’s elite list of wine producers. This “island” Pinot blends estate and purchased fruit, fermented in amphorae and stainless steel before maturing for 18 months in a mix of new and neutral French oak. Its slender profile contributes to its remarkable balance and inviting aroma, making it hard to imagine this wine lingering long in any glass. Look for a juicy character, with red fruit accented by sea salt, minerals, and cherry blossoms. It’s among the most refined pinots we’ve tasted on Vancouver Island, and it comes in at under 12 per cent alcohol.