Anthony Gismondi: B.C.'s wild, windy Similkameen Valley offers up wines that turn heads

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 Many consumers find aging wine an obscure concept, as they often consume wine within a couple of hours after leaving the store. However, a wine region’s reputation for wines that age well and evolve in the bottle is crucial for boosting its status among the world’s top producers. The goal is to produce wines beyond mere commercial quantities — those that highlight a strong sense of place. Clos du Soleil has demonstrated that B.C. possesses the right climate and soils to compete internationally, even if our exports remain limited.

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 Clos du Soleil plans to celebrate its 20th anniversary throughout the year, so check the website for upcoming events or stop by the winery, where an older vintage pour will be offered alongside current releases, subject to availability.

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Weekend wine picks

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Clos du Soleil Fumé Blanc Sauvignon Blanc – Sémillon 2025,  Okanagan Valley

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$26.90 | 90/100

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UPC: 857088000862

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Look for a restrained, mineral-driven take that apes the Bordeaux blueprint of some 70 per cent Sauvignon Blanc and 30 per cent Semillon, fermented in stainless steel and neutral oak to soften the edges and add texture. There’s plenty of aromatics here, led by grapefruit pith, lime zest, and white peach, with a smoky, leesy undertone. The palate is dry and linear, with bright acidity, citrus and orchard fruit, dusted with savoury desert scrub notes. The finish is clean, stony, and persistent. Think West Coast shellfish as the match.

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Undurraga Sibaris Chardonnay Gran Reserva 2024, Valle de Leyda, Valle de San Antonio, Chile
$19.99 | 88/100
UPC: 7804315002000
The Leyda Valley is renowned for its cool, Pacific Ocean-influenced climate, a handy asset when making modern Chardonnay. Despite its grand name, the Sibaris Gran Reserva is a solid mid week Chardonnay, light on oak and big on tropical fruit. It’s mostly dry, with alcohol just over 13 per cent, making it an ideal luncheon pick. Expect a citrus edge to keep it balanced, and pineapple, peach, lemon peel, and a touch of honey to attract a crowd. Lively enough for seafood or pasta dishes, especially if they need a lift of freshness. Good value.

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Hester Creek Old Vines Trebbiano 2025, Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley
$22.99 | 89/100
UPC: 626990125341
A cool, savoury take on one of B.C.’s heritage whites. What’s gained in freshness from a mostly stainless steel ferment seems offset by ripe, fruit-forward flavours and just under 6 grams of residual sugar, making this more of a summer sipper than a gastronomic force. Apples, candied lemon peel, and almonds fill the palate, with a citrus and licorice finish. This year’s edition is better suited to spicy foods that can stand up to its ripe flavours. This is a pleasant wine and will have many fans, but how about a drier single-block version, too?

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Poplar Grove CSM 2022, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley

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$29.99 | 91/100

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UPC: 626990454922

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Each of the three grapes, 47 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 per cent Merlot, and 23 per cent Syrah, is processed individually before it is blended. This is a ripe red with plenty of structure, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah leading the way. Black cherries, cassis, and cedar mark the nose, while the palate is a full-blown savoury, spicy, dessert red with firm tannins and sagebrush in the finish. Grilled beef, lamb, or braised short ribs are the best match at the moment. If you like big, rich reds, this is it.

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Rocca delle Macie Roccato 2022, Tuscany, Italy
$52.99 | 91/100
UPC: 8002305009162
Zingarelli’s Roccato started as a Super Tuscan blend but has been a solo Cabernet Sauvignon release since 2015. The mixture of some leanness and a delicious, savoury nose and palate suggests it is a site-driven Tuscan Cabernet rather than a New World wine. Expect ripe cherries, cassis, mocha, cedar, and a balsamic lift. The palate offers a mix of dark fruits, dried herbs, and chocolate, all ending with a fresh finish. It would be fun to taste this side by side with a top B.C. Cabernet Sauvignon. Open it for a relaxing evening in Tuscany through 2028.