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“Yes, yes, yes, yes. Why not?“ Courtin-Clarins answers enthusiastically when asked if there’s a plan to make the company’s research public.
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At the centre of the new hair care range is Le Serum Fortifying Scalp Concentrate Serum ($125), an elixir that harnesses the power of organic white iris extract and saffron flower polyphenol, along with skin-care ingredients such as panthenol and niacinamide, to stimulate the fibroblast in the dermal papilla to boost hair thickness, shine and strength.
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The saffron flower polyphenol, which is sourced from Greece, is a byproduct of food-grade saffron that can be found in the brand’s My Clarins range. But the white iris extract is a first for the company. It’s sourced from the south of France.
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Scalp health is one of the fastest growing frontiers in the hair and beauty market, with brands and consumers seeming increasingly enthusiastic about the segment.
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According to Dr. Ana Pedrosa, a European dermatologist who specializes in the hair and scalp, the preoccupation with all things scalp is warranted.
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“As you treat the skin on your face and your body with skin-care anti-aging properties, we should take the same measures to your scalp,” Pedrosa says. “Shampoo and conditioner is important for the part that we see. Those are routine steps, of course, but to treat the true source of the hair, the bulb, is also important.”
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She points to the COVID-19 as being a primary instigator behind the boom, as many people experienced hair loss during that time.
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“With the pandemic, all the stress, the lack of sleep, the infection itself, pushed many hairs into the telegenic phase, the shedding phase,” Pedrosa says. “So, it was a problem that became more apparent.”
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In addition to topical tinctures and salves, the hair and scalp expert says you can also incorporate some other techniques and procedures that are typically associated with the skin, such as gua sha massaging tools, to help boost hair thickness.
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“The rationale here is to increase the permeation of agents,” she notes. “As doctors, we frequently use microneedling, for instance, to increase the blood flow to stimulate the local blood growth factors that will promote your hair growth.”
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Pedrosa also points to select laser or platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapies, a process that sees blood plasma and platelets used for healing or repair, as additional options for those experiencing hair loss.
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As with skin care, Pedrosa says it’s important to address concerns early. If you notice a loss of density, speak to a professional early rather than waiting for large areas of concern to develop and then looking to undo the damage.
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Perhaps most important above all, she notes, you have to stay consistent.
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“You have to start early and maintain the consistency, otherwise you will lose the gains you’ve had.”
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