I found heart-pounding wildlife moments at this new safari lodge in Botswana

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Tents come stocked with yoga mats, plush robes, fragrant Charlotte Rhys bath products, a well-appointed tea station and reliable Wi-Fi in the guests’ tents. Same-day laundry services make light packing easy. Slippers and a more efficient way to communicate questions to staff would be welcome additions.   

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The gathering and dining areas of the main lodge wrap around a central leadwood tree, with a circular bar, generous seating and swinging benches. One of the most distinctive features is the use of hanging ropes throughout to soften the wall structures and to create more intimate seating areas. There’s an expansive circular deck above the river with a firepit, as well as a swimming pool, a small spa and a gift shop. The lodge is solar powered, and water is purified on-site.

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A series of hanging ropes act as spatial and architectural devices while softening the space and adding visual depth. Photo by Mary Beth Roberts

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Jack Alexander Architecture took an adaptive reuse approach with the build, restoring the swimming pool instead of replacing it. Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

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Sediba Sa Rona’s design was dictated by its natural surroundings ­— the trees, the riverbank and the flow. Photo by Mary Beth Roberts

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Activities 

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Mokoro rides and game drives in open 4X4 vehicles happen twice a day. Because this is a community-owned concession, guides can venture off-track and head out after dark, which Botswana’s national park rules for other area safari lodges don’t allow. Helicopter tours of the delta and specialist birding outings are available for an additional fee.

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Daily game drives bring lions, elephants, giraffes, zebras and the rest, but it is the birds of Botswana that, unexpectedly, stole the show for me. Guide NT proved an exceptional birder, quick to spot hornbills, bee-eaters, kingfishers, egrets, and my favourite, the rainbow feathered lilac-breasted rollers, which drop from the skies with a tumble to impress potential mates.

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A lilac-breasted roller perches on a tree branch in the Okavango Delta, Botswana. Photo by Mary Beth Roberts

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Botswana has the largest elephant population in Africa. Photo by Mary Beth Roberts

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A leopard mother and her cub rest in a raintree. Photo by Mary Beth Roberts

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NT’s eye for detail is equally sharp on the ground. Fresh leopard tracks send us venturing off-road one afternoon, where we find a mother and cub draped lazily over the branch of a raintree high overhead.

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Botswana holds Africa’s largest elephant population, and a particularly sizable bull prompts a tusk-based age guessing game on one drive. NT’s verdict: early 40s — same as him. “We went to school together,” he adds with a grin.   

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Food and service  

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Sigourney Kinnear of South Africa’s Dakota Design selected wooden, linen and woven textures throughout because natural materials respond better to their environment over time. Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

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Meals follow a set rhythm: a light breakfast of pastries, fruit and yogurt; a hearty lunch spread of meat pies, lasagna and roast chicken; high tea with cakes and small bites; and a generous buffet for dinner.

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Batswana cuisine staples of chakalaka (spicy mixed vegetables) and magwenya (deep-fried dough balls) are delicious highlights. Local beef, lamb and fresh fish rotate alongside cheese boards and salads.

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Circular bar at Sediba Sa Rona. Photo by Mary Beth Roberts

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There’s a wide range of South African wines, local beer and soft drinks. A herbaceous Okavango Gin and tonic is a classic sundowner tipple as well as a force for good: part of Okavanago Gin’s sales support an early childhood education program in the region.

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Staff are Sediba’s clearest asset. The warm atmosphere they create reflects the many family connections in this resort community, which feels friendly and welcoming.

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The takeaway  

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What Sediba Sa Rona has in its opening season — a remarkable location, genuine community roots and knowledgeable guides with the freedom of a community-owned concession — is the kind of thing that can’t be retrofitted once a lodge opens.

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From the start, Sediba knows exactly what it is and how to make its guests feel welcomed — and pampered — in this postcard-perfect part of Africa. 

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If you go  

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Rates start at $940 per person, per night, double occupancy depending on the season. Pricing includes accommodation, scheduled activities, meals, refreshments, local spirits and wines (excluding premium brands), laundry service and national park fees. Visit desertdelta.com 

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Mary Beth Roberts was a guest of Sediba Sa Rona, which did not review this article before publication.

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