D.C. DELIGHTS: Washington boasts historical charm, modern allures

Museums and monuments are part of the allure, so too are unique neighbourhoods and vibrant food scene

Published Oct 17, 2024  •  8 minute read

The original columns from the U.S. Capitol, created in 1826, now stand tall at the U.S. National Arboretum. Photo by IAN SHANTZ /TORONTO SUN

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Much like Toronto’s CN Tower, Washington, D.C.’s namesake monument comes in and out of view across the city.

The 555-foot obelisk commemorates the United States’ first president but also serves as a guidepost of sorts for directionally challenged visitors (and travel writers), the marble tower helping to keep turned-around tourists from losing their marbles.

One of the U.S. capital’s most recognizable symbols additionally contributes to a juxtaposition between old and new that dominates D.C. in the best ways.

From the historical components of the National Mall to the fancy cocktail components at a hip new bar or restaurant in revitalized or new districts such as Union Market or The Wharf, the city oscillates almost effortlessly between past and present in a way few others in North America can.

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It bears mentioning that if a stereotype has ever existed suggesting D.C. is stuffy or boring, our recent four-day visit vanquished those thoughts. Home to some 700,000 people, “The District” seems to transform on a dime with each neighbourhood revealing characteristics as distinct and varying as the nation’s political viewpoints. There’s a liveliness to everything, if a bit hurried, likely due to the mass of busy federal workers.

Destinations are often loosely described as offering something for everyone, but in D.C.’s case, that sentiment is indisputable. There really is a bit of everything here — new, old, red, white and blue — and the best part is that much of it is entirely free to experience.

Come for the Lincoln Memorial, White House and endless museums, stay for the diverse neighbourhoods and emerging food scene, and don’t dare leave town without trying the city’s signature dish, the half-smoke, from Ben’s Chili Bowl.

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With the presidential election drawing near, we’ll opt to stay non-partisan in this corner, but we will go public in casting our ballot in favour of D.C. as a great place to explore for a few days or even a week.

The U.S. Capitol strikes an imposing figure. IAN SHANTZ/TORONTO SUN

MALL, MUSEUMS & MORE

America’s Front Yard doesn’t need any introduction. The National Mall is home to some of the nation’s most iconic structures, including the Lincoln Memorial (the steps on which Martin Luther King Jr. delivered his “I Have a Dream” speech), the U.S. Capitol and the Washington Monument, all accessed by pedestrian paths surrounding the instantly recognizable tree-lined rectangular lawn.

To visit the country’s capital and not the National Mall would be akin to avoiding the Eiffel Tower in Paris or the Colosseum in Rome.

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Visitors would be wise to free up an entire day for the mall. It’s a vast space and requires a lot of walking. Segways and bikes are great options. All the major monuments and memorials are wheelchair accessible.

The National Mall draws more than 25 million visitors annually and is especially popular during the four-week-long National Cherry Blossom Festival the city hosts each spring.

While not officially part of the mall, the White House is steps away. Tours are available but the Oval Office is not part of the route and Canadians must pre-book tours through the Canadian Embassy, with several stipulations.

White House Historical Association president Stewart D. McLaurin stands inside the Oval Office replica during a tour of The People’s House: A White House Experience. SARA SHANTZ PHOTO

An excellent alternative to the real thing recently opened to the public less than a block from 1600 Pennsylvania Ave.

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The People’s House: A White House Experience is a technology-driven immersive centre that tells the story of the executive mansion, its inhabitants and the people who have dedicated their career to its functions.

A highlight is the full-scale replica of U.S. President Joe Biden’s office including the Resolute Desk where visitors are encouraged to take selfies capturing their POTUS moment. (The office will be redecorated as needed to reflect the choices of Biden’s successor.)

Start with an orientation film before entering an immersive theatre highlighting various rooms of the house. Check out the digital portraits and stories of staff who have dedicated their careers to making the White House function, then sit in the Cabinet Room and listen to past presidents debating major events in history. 

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Then drop in at the street-level gift shop to purchase the official White House Historical Association Christmas ornament. 

There is no admission fee, but visitors must request timed tickets.

The National Museum of Natural History is one of many Smithsonian museums in D.C. IAN SHANTZ/TORONTO SUN

No visit to D.C. is complete without including some of the Smithsonian Institution’s 17 museums, galleries and zoo. We explored the Air and Space Museum, Natural Museum of Natural History and the National Zoo (which recently welcomed back two giant pandas, Bao Li and Qing Bao, who will make their public debut Jan. 24, 2025) all free of charge. Note that a few of the museums require pre-booked timeslots.

Head to the International Spy Museum (but do so covertly) to experience the world’s largest collection of espionage artifacts and learn about global spy missions such as the “Canadian Caper,” which inspired the movie Argo.

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A separately ticketed exhibition, Bond in Motion, runs through April 2025 and features iconic vehicles used on-screen by 007.

For something closer to nature, head to the U.S. National Arboretum. The living museum is home to the National Bonsai and Penjing Museum and the original Capitol columns, completed in 1826.

Black Broadway tour guide Briana Thomas talks about Lee’s Flower and Card Shop, one of the original Black-owned businesses in the U St. corridor. The business was founded in 1945. SARA SHANTZ PHOTO

BLACK BROADWAY & BEYOND

While the Harlem Renaissance gets much of the credit, a similar Black arts and culture revival predates it by about 20 years, D.C. journalist, author and tour guide Briana Thomas told us as we set out on her tour of greater U St. dubbed Black Broadway.

“D.C. has long been a hub for Black culture and Black advocacy and really just Black fun,” Thomas said.

Highlights of the well-crafted tour include the progressive Howard Theatre, which welcomed mixed-race audiences during a time of segregation, and the Lincoln Theatre, known for hosting renowned acts like Billie Holliday and Louis Armstrong. There are nods throughout to D.C. native and jazz icon Duke Ellington, who was raised in this neighbourhood, which flourished at the end of the 19th century and for the first half of the 20th century, paving the way for many civil rights leaders.

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There were 300 Black-owned businesses at the height of prosperity in the corridor. Today, three remain, including Ben’s Chili Bowl, a D.C. icon since 1958 that serves the original half-smoke, D.C’s signature dish.

The half-smoke is D.C.’s signature dish, originating at iconic Ben’s Chili Bowl in an area of town known as Black Broadway. IAN SHANTZ/TORONTO SUN

FOOD FOR EVERY MOOD

What is a half-smoke? It’s a mixed pork and beef hot dog/sausage served on a steamed bun, traditionally topped with mustard, onions and husband-and-wife owners Ben and Virginia Ali’s chili sauce. It’s terrific and so are this couple’s many contributions, including notably during the 1968 race riots when they stayed open past curfew to serve both activists and local police and firemen. Martin Luther King Jr. and former president Barack Obama are among the dignitaries to pay a visit.

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There’s no shortage of nostalgia served in D.C., including at Martin’s Tavern in leafy Georgetown. Founded in 1933 by former Major League Baseball player Billy Martin, this landmark is a favourite among presidents. Look for Booth No. 3. That’s where President John F. Kennedy proposed to Jacqueline Bouvier. The place is dark and cozy, a perfect setting to enjoy a classic New York striploin as I did.

Helped along significantly by celebrity chef Jose Andres’ arrival to town decades ago and subsequent opening of restaurants predominantly in the Penn Quarter, the city’s food scene has been gaining new steam over the past few years with dining districts like The Wharf and Union Market popping up.

The duck shawarma was the highlight dish at ilili in The Warf neighbourhood in D.C. SARA SHANTZ PHOTO

D.C. is home to the largest Ethiopian diaspora in the U.S., prompting a wave of Ethiopian restaurants across town. Global fare is easy to find, including the flavourful Peruvian beef we loved at Pisco Y Nazca and memorable brunch at Lebanese and Mediterranean-inspired ilili, one of two ilili locations in the U.S. (try the duck shawarma and marvel at the stunning interior.)

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Enjoy a cocktail and 360-degree views of the Potomac River, city skyline and the Washington Monument from the Top of the Gate rooftop bar at the Watergate Hotel, known for a certain presidential scandal that gained some notoriety years ago.

Keep the cocktail party going at Silver Lyan, a 1920s prohibition-inspired hidden bar inside a former bank’s vault. It’s the first U.S. outpost from award-winning cocktail mastermind Ryan Chetiyawardana, more commonly known as Mr. Lyan. The D.C. establishment is working on collaborations with Toronto’s Library Bar.

Saddle up at Founding Farmers and Distillers, a farmer-owned company with several locations in D.C. The company has partnered with the North Dakota Farmers Union and boasts that everything on the menu is made from scratch. We enjoyed excellent chicken and waffles at the Chinatown location.

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Start your day at one of several Tatte Bakery & Cafe locations across the city. About that stare-down with the morning bun in the front showcase, it will win, so just order it already, it’s delicious.

The egg in a hole at Tatte Bakery & Cafe is delicious. IAN SHANTZ/TORONTO SUN

HERE AND THERE

Of all the neighbourhoods we visited, we were particularly impressed by historic Georgetown and The Wharf, a 1.7-km mixed-use development that opened in 2017 along the Potomac River. It’s home to the the country’s oldest continually operating open-air fish market and some interesting shops such as Shop Made In DC, home to more than 300 local makers.

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PLANNING FOR PRIDE

D.C. will host WorldPride in 2025, coinciding with the 50th anniversary of Pride in D.C., where 14.3% of the adult population here identifies as LGBTQ+, a higher percentage than any state in the U.S.

The Lyle Hotel is a boutique property nestled in the residential Dupont Circle neighbourhood. IAN SHANTZ/TORONTO SUN

WHERE WE STAYED

The Lyle Hotel: Opened in 2021 by the Lore Group, this 1940s art deco building, formerly an apartment complex, is a four-star property in the heart of the Dupont Circle neighbourhood, a sleepier area of town offering a respite from some of the more action-packed spots. Enjoy spacious deluxe sleeping quarters and feast on incredible hash browns and flat whites in the hotel dining room, Lyle’s.

HOW WE GOT THERE

We flew direct from Toronto Pearson International Airport via Air Canada and used Uber to get around town.

For more information, visit washington.org.

[email protected]

On X: @IanShantz

The Washington Monument is a sight to beyond from various vantage points throughout D.C. IAN SHANTZ/TORONTO SUN

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