Anthony Gismondi: How the Summerland wildfire affected wineries — and what you can do about it

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Keep in mind that wineries can mitigate some smoke-related issues, especially in white wines pressed quickly off their skins. If smoke markers are low, affected lots may be blended into larger cuvées to dilute the impact. More aggressive interventions are possible, but most have proved limited in removing smoke character entirely — hence the taint.

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The encouraging news is that researchers have identified the key smoke compounds and are moving quickly toward remedies that can clean up affected wines without stripping away the wine’s character. For this harvest, all we can ask is that everyone involved be transparent about their situation and refrain from bottling anything that could hurt their image or the image of B.C. wines.

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It’s a big ask, and it comes on the heels of the pandemic and two big freeze events. Farming is not for the faint of heart.

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Weekend wine picks

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Moraine Chardonnay 2025, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley

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$26.49 | 89/100

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UPC: 626990127796

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Moraine is back with a post-freeze Chardonnay in 2025. It has a much more floral upfront presence, with a mineral wet stone scent on a warm day. Fresh citrus and a hazelnut mid-palate lead to a brioche finish. It’s full flavoured and wide, and while it lacks precision, it has a big wow factor in the mouth. Ready to drink. Think about serving this with buttered clams or Cacio e Pepe. Drink or hold through 2027. Good value.

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JoieFarm Rosé 2025, Okanagan Valley
$29.99 | 91/100

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UPC: 00692739000026

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Joie has long been one of B.C.’s Rosé specialists, and the Pinot-Gamay blend remains a house signature. Expect fragrant strawberry, cherry and watermelon supported by bright acidity and a silky texture. Elegant, energetic, and endlessly drinkable, this remains a benchmark for B.C. Rosé.

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1 Mill Road Pinot Noir Rosé 2025, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley
$38 | 93/100

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UPC: 628942298691

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I’m late to the party on this wine, and I regret not getting there sooner. This 100 per cent Pinot Noir is as delicious as any Provençal Rosé I have had, often better. But to be fair, Provence is not Pinot Noir country. At 1 Mill farms, there are  two Pinot sites on the Naramata Bench: Black Pine Vineyard and Cronie Family Vineyard. The colour is pink perfection; the nose evokes a Provençal garden party. The palate is elegant; the fruit is pure, with only a touch of used oak for texture. It is still available on the website for $228 for a six-pack. We highly recommend it.

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Lakeboat Pinot Noir 2023, Kaleden, Okanagan Valley
$29.95 | 88/100

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UPC: 696852078610

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The 2023 Lakeboat Pinot Noir comes from Kaleden, just south of Penticton on the west shore of Skaha Lake. The early morning sun and late day shade create ideal conditions for the grapes to develop slowly and gracefully, and this wine reflects that. Strawberries with a hint of vanilla and soft, silky tannins are the story of this highly drinkable and affordable Pinot. Lakeboat is owned by Tara Mathison, who originally purchased an older house in Kaleden, surrounded by the vineyard of Topshelf Winery, which was also for sale.

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Mission Hill Reserve Merlot 2022, Okanagan Valley
$31.99 | 91/100

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UPC: 776545995117

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When it comes to consistency, the Mission Hill Reserve Series is the poster child. The secret to success is simple. They do not cut corners, delivering quality and value in every bottle. The ’22 Reserve Merlot was grown in two South Okanagan estate vineyards in Osoyoos and Oliver. On the nose, the aromas are rich and compact, with wild blackberry, red plums dusted with cedar, and chocolate. The flavours are full, and the texture is soft. The finish is long, complete with dense, sweet tannins. It is still just a baby, but this excellent Merlot is one you can cellar with ease.