How Heated Rivalry helped save this Hamilton restaurant

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The book’s title comes from the motto Paul established at Union: “simple done right.”

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“Keep it simple and do it right. That’s all we’ve got to do,” says Paul. “Let the food speak. Get to the heart of it, and people appreciate it a lot more.”

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STEAK HACHÉ TABAC-STYLE WITH SAUCE AU POIVRE

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Steak haché tabac-style with sauce au poivre is a dish for the everyday, says Teo Paul. “You don’t labour too hard, and you enjoy them for what they are.” Photo by Daniel Neuhaus

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Serves: 4

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Sauce au Poivre:
1 tbsp canola oil or duck fat
1 onion, finely diced
1/2 cup drained green peppercorns
1 cup port
1 tbsp Better Than Bouillon chicken or beef base
1 cup heavy (35 per cent) cream, plus more as needed
1 tbsp Dijon mustard

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Steak Haché:
2 lb (900 g) lean ground beef
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tsp pure maple syrup
Salt and ground black pepper
1 tbsp duck fat

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Step 1

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Make the sauce: Heat a saucepan over medium heat. Add the oil, then sweat the onion and green peppercorns until the onions are translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the port and cook off the alcohol smell for a minute or two.

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Step 2

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In the meantime, mix the bouillon with 1 cup water to make the stock. Add that to the pan and stir until the sauce comes together. Whisk the cream and mustard into the sauce for depth and character. Cook until the sauce is reduced by about one-third. Remove from the heat.

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Step 3

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Make the steak haché: In a large bowl, mix the beef, mustard, soy sauce, maple syrup and a generous pinch of both salt and pepper until just combined. Form into four patties and season again with salt and pepper.

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Step 4

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In a skillet over medium heat, warm the duck fat. Sear the patties for 5 minutes, then flip and cook for another 5 to 7 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer the haché to a plate.

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Step 5

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Pour the sauce into the skillet and bring to a simmer. Taste and adjust the seasoning. If it’s too salty, add an additional 1/4 cup cream.

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Step 6

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Plate the steak haché with the sauce spooned over top.

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GREY OWL ENDIVE SALAD WITH MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE AND FRESH DILL

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Teo Paul tops this endive salad with Grey Owl, an ash-ripened goat cheese from Quebec — “bold, striking and truly unforgettable.” Photo by Daniel Neuhaus

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Serves: 6

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Mustard Vinaigrette:
1/2 shallot, finely diced
3 tbsp olive or canola oil
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp red wine vinegar or white balsamic vinegar
1/2 tsp honey (skip this if you’re using white balsamic vinegar)
Squeeze of lemon juice
Salt and ground black pepper

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Salad:
2 heads endive, roughly chopped
1 head radicchio, roughly chopped
1 bunch radishes with tops, radishes quartered and greens roughly chopped
1 Honeycrisp apple or Bartlett pear, sliced
1/4 cup chopped fresh dill
1/2 cup pecan or walnut halves, toasted (see Tabac Hack)
7 oz (200 g) Grey Owl goat cheese or Château de Bourgogne (a cow’s milk triple-cream cheese)

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Step 1

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Make the vinaigrette: In a shallow bowl, combine the shallot, oil, mustard, vinegar and honey (if using). Whisk until emulsified. Add a squeeze of lemon juice and whisk again. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

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Step 2

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Make the salad: In a large bowl, combine the endive, radicchio, radishes, radish greens, apple and dill. Add the vinaigrette to coat lightly and toss well.

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Step 3

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Plate the salad and finish with the pecans and Grey Owl over top.

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Tabac Hack: To toast pecan or walnut halves, spread them on a parchment-lined baking sheet and toast in a 400F (200C) oven for 6 minutes. Spread them out on a plate to cool.

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PAN-FRIED PICKEREL ON TOAST WITH HARISSA GRIBICHE

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“Sauce gribiche and pickerel just make sense together,” Teo Paul says of this dish he created for his Hamilton restaurant Le Tambour, of Heated Rivalry fame. “The harissa pulls it into the present.” Photo by Daniel Neuhaus

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Serves: 4

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Harissa Gribiche:
5 eggs
1 shallot, finely diced
1/2 cup chopped bread-and-butter pickles or dill pickles
2 tbsp aioli or mayonnaise
1 tsp Dijon mustard
3 tbsp harissa, plus more to serve
Salt and ground black pepper

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Pan-Fried Pickerel:
1 tbsp duck fat or olive oil, for toasting
4 slices quality bread
1 cup tempura batter mix (I prefer Nissin brand)
1/4 cup soda water
2 ice cubes
4 skin-on pickerel fillets (about 5 1/2 oz/160 g each), each cut into 3 pieces (see note)
2 cups canola oil