Cook This: 3 sweet Thanksgiving recipes from Thyme for Dessert, including pumpkin-spiced tea cake

DL Acken's sweet treats take inspiration from the flavours and ingredients of the West Coast

Clockwise from left: pumpkin-spiced tea cake, miso cannoli with lemony chèvre crème and whisky-spiked tamari bear claws. PHOTOS BY DL ACKEN

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Our cookbook of the week is Thyme for Dessert by food writer and photographer DL Acken with food stylist and author Aurelia Louvet.

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Whether in Wales or the Gulf Islands, DL Acken loves cooking with what’s around her.

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When I talk to the Gourmand World Cookbook Award-winning author and commercial photographer, she’s making her way to Salt Spring Island, crossing the Salish Sea by ferry. Though she travels a lot for work, dividing her time mostly between Vancouver, Brooklyn, N.Y., and London, U.K., Acken’s farm studio on Salt Spring is home base.

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Acken has written and photographed many books, including Cedar + Salt (2019) and A Rising Tide (2021), co-written with Emily Lycopolus. She sees her latest, Thyme for Dessert (TouchWood Editions, 2025), as a continuation of her culinary ethos.

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“Without getting on too high of a soapbox, I really believe in local foods, local flavours,” says Acken, laughing. “I think that tasting what’s available when you’re there is what makes places interesting. Being out on the islands, we have so much access to fresh produce, to great meat farms, to fresh dairy, and everything that’s growing in the wild. So, it makes cooking much more exciting than just going to your local grocery store.”

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In Thyme for Dessert, Acken draws on the flavours of the West Coast. The book includes chapters on confections and cookies, breads and bars, cakes, cobblers and crumbles, pies and pastries, ice creams and custards, and preserves. In the recipes, a few of which are from her business partner, food stylist Aurelia Louvet (who co-wrote Let’s Eat and Off the Hook), Acken finds ways to merge traditional treats and homegrown products.

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Take the Victoria sponge Acken’s British family passed down to her, which she uses to showcase “the most magical fruit” and a West Coast favourite, blackberries. Or her twist on cannoli, which combines the umami of shiro miso with the citrusy tang of Salt Spring Island goat cheese.

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“With Thyme for Dessert, I really wanted to focus not just on the local ingredients, but local flavours. We have such a rich tapestry of cultures on the West Coast,” says Acken. “Taking indigenous ingredients mixed with flavours that have been brought to Canada is just really exciting to me.”

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DL Acken drew on the flavours of the West Coast for her new cookbook, Thyme for Dessert. Photo by TouchWood Editions

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Acken adds that, as she set out to show in Cedar + Salt, “everything we need for great food is available here.” Horticulturist Jane Squier’s farm is a 10-minute walk from her house. Locally grown avocados, 35 varieties of cold-hardy citrus, passion fruit and other subtropical fruit are within reach. And Salt Spring “has some of the greatest lamb in the world.”

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Acken grew up in Vancouver and spent most of her life between Canada and her father’s native U.K. She started shooting as a music photographer in the 1990s while working for author and chef Lesley Stowe Scott, creator of Raincoast Crisps, as a catering manager. “Lesley is the one who got me interested in food and cooking, and really, the art of slow food,” says Acken, who went on to open her own catering companies in Toronto and Vancouver in the early and mid-2000s before moving to the U.K. in 2008. Since 2009, food writing and photography have been her focus.

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“This is such a personal book to me because these are desserts from my kitchen,” Acken says of Thyme for Dessert. And her images transport readers there. “I wanted to make sure it was my style of photography that captured the light of the Pacific Northwest and some of my favourite artisans, (like potters).”

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Acken forages as many blackberries as she can each summer so she has enough to last until the season comes around again. The spruce tips she harvests in the spring infuse local sea salt, syrup for cocktails and shortbread, and she turns Nootka rose hips into jelly to eat with her cheese all winter.

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From locally grown haskaps and hazelnuts to flavours introduced by immigrant communities, including masala chai, miso and tamari, Acken draws inspiration from the products around her. And, as Thyme for Dessert showcases so enticingly, she taps into ways to use them in everyday baking and cooking.

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“I would love to encourage people to pick a recipe, pick a flavour, pick your favourite dish, and go for it. Indulge yourself. Take the time to actually enjoy being in the kitchen and tasting the flavours, and make something special that you can share with your friends and family.”

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PUMPKIN-SPICED TEA CAKE

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“I’m absolutely Team Everything Pumpkin Spice,” says DL Acken. This tea cake transforms the flavour of her favourite coffee drink into a sweet Thanksgiving treat. Photo by DL Acken

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Makes: 1 Bundt cake

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Cake:
2 1/4 cups (560 mL) self-rising flour (see note)
2 medium eggs
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
1 cup (250 mL) buttermilk
3/4 cup (180 mL) pumpkin purée (not pumpkin pie filling)
1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract
2 tsp (10 mL) pumpkin spice mix
1 tsp (5 mL) freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) fine sea salt

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Cinnamon glaze:
4 cups (1 L) icing sugar
1/2 cup (125 mL) Greek yogurt
1/2 cup (125 mL) cream cheese, softened, cubed
1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice
1 tsp (5 mL) ground cinnamon

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CAKE

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Step 1

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Preheat the oven to 350F (175C).

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Step 2

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Using a fine mesh sieve, sift the flour into a large mixing bowl.

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Step 3

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Using a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment (or a large, high-sided mixing bowl and a handheld electric mixer), beat the eggs and sugar on high speed until the mixture turns light yellow and starts to thicken, about 5 minutes.

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Step 4

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Add the buttermilk, pumpkin purée, vanilla, pumpkin spice, pepper and salt, and mix on medium speed until the ingredients all come together, about 30 seconds. Add the sifted flour to the pumpkin mixture and carefully mix together with a wooden spoon until the flour is just incorporated. Do not over-mix.

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Step 5

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Pour the batter into a non-stick Bundt pan and bake until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean and the cake bounces back if you apply light pressure to the surface, 45-60 minutes. Place the pan on a cooling rack and let the cake cool completely.

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CINNAMON GLAZE

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Step 1

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Add all the glaze ingredients to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Beat on low speed until all the icing sugar is dissolved. Turn the speed to medium-high and beat until the glaze is smooth. Pour over the cooled cake.

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Step 2

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The cake will keep covered at room temperature for 3-4 days and up to 1 week in the refrigerator.

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Note: To make self-rising flour, whisk together 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder and 1/4 teaspoon salt for each 1 cup of all-purpose flour.

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MISO CANNOLI WITH LEMONY CHÈVRE CRÈME

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Miso cannoli with lemony chèvre crème is one of DL Acken’s favourite recipes in the book. It combines the complex umami of shiro miso with the citrusy tang of Salt Spring Island goat cheese. Photo by DL Acken

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Makes: 12 cannoli

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2 tbsp (30 mL) apple cider vinegar
1 tbsp (15 mL) shiro (white) miso paste
1 1/2 cups (375 mL) all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
2 tbsp (30 mL) granulated sugar
1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) fine sea salt
3 tbsp (45 mL) unsalted butter, cold, cubed
1 large egg, cold
1 1/2 cups (375 mL) soft chèvre, such as fresh goat cheese from Salt Spring Island Cheese
3/4 cups (180 mL) icing sugar, plus more for dusting
1 tbsp (15 mL) grated lemon zest
1 Tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice
1 egg white
Canola oil for frying; enough for 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep in a wide, heavy-bottomed pot

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Step 1

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In a small bowl, whisk together the apple cider vinegar and miso to make a paste. Set aside.

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Step 2

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In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, combine the flour, sugar and sea salt. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles small pebbles. Add the egg and the apple cider vinegar miso paste and pulse again, just until the dough begins to hold together. Transfer the dough to a floured surface and knead by hand until smooth, 3-4 minutes. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to overnight.

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Step 3

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Using a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment (or a large mixing bowl and a handheld electric mixer), whisk the chèvre, icing sugar, lemon zest, and lemon juice on high speed until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Cover the bowl with plastic or beeswax wrap and set in the refrigerator until needed.

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Step 4

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Divide the dough into 12 evenly sized balls. Lightly coat a rolling pin and the countertop with flour and roll the balls out to no more than 1/8-inch (0.3 cm) thickness. If you have one, a tortilla press works really well to form the thin pastry circles quickly and easily.

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Step 5

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Place the egg white in a small bowl, whisk until frothy, and set aside.

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Step 6

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In a wide, heavy-bottomed pot fitted with a thermometer, heat the canola oil to between 350F (175C) and 380F (193C). Line a large plate with paper towels.

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Step 7

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Wrap one circle of dough loosely around a cannoli tube. Brush one end of the dough with egg white, then pull the other end over the top and press down firmly to seal. Repeat with three more shells.

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Step 8

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Use tongs to carefully lower the cannoli forms into the oil and, turning them often, fry until golden, 2-3 minutes. Remove the shells from the oil with the tongs and transfer them to the prepared plate to cool. Once the shells are cool, carefully remove the forms and repeat until all 12 cannoli are done. Cool completely before filling.

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Step 9

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Remove the filling from the refrigerator 30 minutes before you’re ready to fill the cannoli. Give the mixture a whisk and then load a piping bag fitted with a 1-inch (2.5 cm) nozzle with the lemony chèvre filling. Insert the tip into one end of a shell and pipe the cream in, filling it halfway, and then pipe the rest in the other end. Repeat with the remaining shells. Dust the filled cannoli with icing sugar and serve immediately.

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Step 10

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The shells and filling can be stored separately for up to 3 days. Store the shells in an airtight container at room temperature and the filling in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Filled cannoli can be frozen in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Thaw for at least 2 hours before serving.

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WHISKY-SPIKED TAMARI BEAR CLAWS

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These whisky-spiked tamari bear claws are DL Acken’s take on Turtles. “The tamari just takes it to the next level,” she says of the candy, perfect for holiday gift-giving. Photo by DL Acken

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Makes: 30-36 bear claws

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2 cups (500 mL) raw almonds
2 tbsp (30 mL) tamari
1/2 cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, cold, cubed
1/2 cup (125 mL) whipping cream
1/4 cup (60 mL) golden syrup
3 tbsp (45 mL) water
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
2 tbsp (30 mL) good quality whisky
12 oz (340 g) semisweet or dark chocolate, finely chopped and divided
Flaky sea salt to finish

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Step 1

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Preheat the oven to 300F (150C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

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Step 2

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In a medium bowl, toss the almonds with the tamari until well coated. Spread the almonds out on the prepared baking sheet in a single layer. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove the almonds from the oven, flip them over, and bake until they are dry and fragrant, approximately 8 minutes. Watch carefully so they don’t burn. Remove from the oven and let cool on the pan.

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Step 3

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In a small saucepan set over medium heat, melt the butter. Pour the cream into a small bowl or jug and add the melted butter. Set aside.

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Step 4

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In a tall, medium-sized saucepan, mix the syrup with the water. Gently stir the sugar into the liquid until it’s moist and then place the pot over medium heat. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the saucepan and cook without stirring until the temperature reads 320F (160C) and the sugar is a light amber colour, 5-8 minutes.

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Step 5

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Turn off the heat, remove the candy thermometer, and then slowly pour the butter and cream mixture into the sugar. The sugar will bubble and sputter, so be careful. Whisk the mixture quickly to incorporate the cream and butter. Don’t worry if the sugar seizes. It will soften again as it boils. Turn the heat on to between medium and medium-low, return the candy thermometer to the pot, and continue cooking until the caramel reaches 240F (116C), another 5-8 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, whisk in the whisky, and set aside until the mixture begins to cool and thicken, 15-20 minutes.

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Step 6

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Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

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Step 7

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Cluster four or five almonds together on the prepared tray. Using a small spoon, drizzle caramel over the centre of them. Repeat with the remaining almonds. Place the tray in the refrigerator to set the caramel.

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Step 8

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Place a cooling rack over a parchment paper-lined baking sheet.

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Step 9

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Gently melt 9 oz (255 g) of the chocolate in a double boiler over medium-low heat, stirring until it’s fully melted. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining chocolate. Stir until fully incorporated and melted. This will temper the chocolate and add a smooth finish to the candies.

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Step 10

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Place the caramel-coated almond clusters on the prepared cooling rack and lightly spoon the warm chocolate over the centre, allowing the excess to drip onto the pan. Lightly sprinkle flaky sea salt over the candies.

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Step 11

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Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days, refrigerate for up to 3 weeks, or freeze for up to 3 months. Thaw frozen candies thoroughly before serving.

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