Cook This: 3 recipes from Setting a Place for Us, including Lebanese cabbage rolls

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Step 4

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Add 3 tablespoons of the oil to a large Dutch oven, distributing it evenly over the bottom, and then scatter in the sliced garlic, onion and shredded cabbage. Add the rolls in one or two layers, depending on the size of your pot. Combine the broth and lemon juice in a spouted measuring cup and stir in 1 teaspoon salt. Pour over the rolls. The liquid should almost cover them. If it doesn’t, add water as needed. Drizzle with the remaining 3 tablespoons oil and sprinkle with the mint. Place a heatproof plate on top of the rolls to weigh them down and keep them from floating. Bring to a gentle simmer over low or medium-low heat, cover, and cook until the cabbage is very tender — just pierce a leaf with a knife to make sure — 1 to 1 1/4 hours.

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Step 5

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Serve warm or at room temperature, with lemon wedges on the side.

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BAHARAT

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Seven Spice Mix

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Makes: a heaping 1/2 cup

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2 tbsp ground allspice
2 tbsp ground coriander
2 tbsp ground cinnamon
1 tbsp ground cloves
1 tbsp ground cumin
1 tbsp ground nutmeg
1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper

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In a small skillet, combine the allspice, coriander, cinnamon, cloves, cumin and nutmeg over low heat and toast, stirring constantly, until the spices are fragrant, about 2 minutes. Pour into a small bowl, stir in the pepper, and let cool before using. Store in a tightly capped glass jar in the pantry for up to 2 months.

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PUPUSAS CON CURTIDO

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“A lot of the people I spoke to said that they’re a symbol of home and a reflection of their country,” Hawa Hassan says of pupusas, the national dish of El Salvador. Photo by Julia Gartland

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Filled Masa Flatbreads with Cabbage Slaw

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Makes: 8 pupusas; serves 4

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Curtido:
1/4 head green cabbage, shredded
1 small carrot, peeled and grated
1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
1 small jalapeño chili, sliced and seeded, if desired
4 cups boiling water
1/4 cup distilled white vinegar
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp dried oregano

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Dough:
2 cups instant masa harina (such as Maseca brand)
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 1/2 cups warm water

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Filling:
2 tbsp lard or vegetable oil
1/2 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 cups cooked and drained red beans (such as kidney)
1 tsp kosher salt
1 cup water
1 cup shredded quesillo cheese
Vegetable oil for your hands and the griddle

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Step 1

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To make the curtido: In a large heatproof bowl, combine the cabbage, carrot, red onion and chili. Pour in the boiling water, cover the bowl with a large plate, and let sit for 15 minutes. Drain well into a colander, then wipe the bowl dry and return the cabbage mixture to it. Add the vinegar, salt and oregano and stir and toss to mix well. Cover and refrigerate until chilled and the flavours are blended, at least 1 hour or preferably overnight.

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Step 2

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To make the dough: In a large bowl, combine the masa harina and salt and stir and toss with a fork to mix well. Drizzle in the water and mix and toss with your hands until the mixture comes together in a stiff dough. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and knead until it is smooth, not sticky, just until it comes together. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap or a kitchen towel and let rest at room temperature while you make the filling. (The dough can also be made in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.)

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Step 3

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To make the filling: In a medium skillet, heat the lard over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until very brown, about 10 minutes. Add the beans, salt and water, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are very creamy and start falling apart, about 10 minutes. Using a potato masher, mash the beans until smooth, then continue to cook, stirring, until very thick, 2 to 3 minutes more. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Stir in the cheese, mixing well.